Desi Wool: India's Forgotten Textile
We did not discover something that never existed. We simply reinterpreted what has always been there.
India has always been a hub of diverse textile traditions, with techniques developed over centuries to suit every climate and landscape. Every region found its own solution to the environment, and one of those solutions is desi wool.
During our recent visit to Bhuj, Gujarat, we learned about desi wool, which comes from indigenous Indian sheep breeds such as Deccani, Marwari, Malpura, Magra, Chokla, and many others. Unlike Merino wool, desi wool is coarser, more durable, and carries a beautifully rustic character. For centuries, it has been used to make shawls, blankets, rugs, and traditional textiles across India.
The wool is collected from the Rabari community, who have raised and cared for sheep for generations. From there, artisans begin a long and labour-intensive process. The raw fleece is washed, sorted, cleaned, spun into yarn, and finally woven by hand. It takes months to complete, with dozens of artisans contributing their skill at different stages of the journey.
Once prepared, the yarn is hand-spun on the charkha, rotating around 180 to 190 times a minute, before being woven on traditional looms. Families such as Shamji and Walji have spent generations weaving these shawls. For them, it is more than a craft; it is part of everyday life and a reflection of their identity.
Almost everyone in the community carries a desi wool shawl over their shoulder. It is more than something to wear. It represents who they are. They also explained that the shawl has a practical purpose. Desi wool naturally regulates temperature, keeping the body warm in cold weather while remaining comfortable in warmer conditions. Its ability to absorb and release moisture helps it adapt to changing climates, making it remarkably functional.
Today, desi wool is becoming increasingly rare, yet it remains one of India's most distinctive textile traditions, celebrated for its durability and rustic texture.
Rabazaar, we wanted to reinterpret this forgotten textile rather than preserve it as a museum piece. We reshaped it into a functional contemporary jacket, allowing a centuries-old material to exist in modern wardrobes while honouring the artisans who continue to keep the craft alive.
This wool has survived for centuries. The question is whether it will survive the next generation.